Hair Color Secrets – Which Color Is Right For You?

Hair color correction is a big money maker in salons nationwide. The reason: over-the-counter hair coloring products have given consumers the impression that hair color is easy and extremely affordable. One look at a professionally-colored model on a commercial or glossy magazine page, and many people clamor to the closest drug store to purchase a $5 box of color with the hopes of receiving a $50 salon look.

The results are often disastrous, and it can take hundreds of dollars to correct a hair color problem that could have been prevented with just a tiny bit of knowledge and planning.

The most common problem seen with hair coloring at home and in salons is choosing a hair color that is too light for the natural shade of hair. Realistically, color can only lighten hair beautifully by a few shades. If you go any lighter than a few shades, you need to choose a high-lift product such as bleach or a professional highlighting system. Failure to do this often results in hair color that is much too brassy or even orange.

Word to the wise: high-lift hair coloring should only be performed by professionals. The controlled chemicals used in the process, if used incorrectly, can result in irreparable damage and/or chemical burns on the scalp and skin.

Another hair color mistake that is seen quite often is choosing a color that is too dark. Extremely dark hair color can be the most challenging to correct because dark color can actually stain the cortex (inner layer) of the hair, making it almost impossible to lighten. Again, avoid choosing hair colors that are more than a few shades darker than your own to prevent a costly cortex stain.

When it comes to choosing the right shade of hair color to use, pick tones and shades that flatter your skin tone. Choose warm shade of hair color (reds and warm browns) if you look best in warm-colored clothing such as reds, pinks and oranges. Choose a cool shade (beige, pale blonde highlights and neutral colors) if you look best in blues and greens.

As you can see, just a little bid of planning and knowledge can save you from costly hair coloring disasters. And by making an informed decision before you purchase hair color, you will not only save money, you will also save your hair from needless damage.

Hair color is a chemical, and every time you chemically process your hair, you damage it to some extent. The damage can be minimal, as is usually the case with high-end professional hair coloring systems, or can be extreme. And each time you use hair color to correct a problem, you are damaging your hair even more.

Here are just a few tell-tale signs that your hair has been over processed with hair color and other chemicals.

" The hair is limp and dull, and no amount of styling can bring back its luster and bounce.
" The hair color has faded dramatically, and you are left with brassy and banded hair color. (Banded hair color is evident by the sudden change of hair color along the hair shaft. For example: the hair may be dark until about 2" from the scalp where it turns a brassy orange.)
" The hair is extremely dry and brittle. When it is wet, it is almost impossible to comb it without causing breakage.

You can avoid damage to your hair caused by hair coloring by taking the same precautions recommended for choosing the right hair color. Choosing the right hair color reduces the amount of color applications, therefore, reducing the chances of your hair becoming over processed.

by: Michael Barrows

READ MORE - Hair Color Secrets – Which Color Is Right For You?

10 Great Hair Care Tips

If you watch the tabloids, you know that even the stars have bad hair days. It just seems that when the professional stylists are out of the picture, it is inherently human to have a less than glamorous mane. But you can do your part to stay ahead of the battle by following these great tips for hair care.

1. Use a professional conditioner that is formulated for your specific hair type. While you can skimp a little on the shampoo, a good, professional conditioner is a must have. Look for products in salons that are customized for your hair type. For instance: If you have color or a perm, choose a conditioner that is for chemically processed hair. And stay away from those all-in-one shampoo and conditioner combos.

2. Choose a cut tailored to your face and body shape. The number one mistake that people make when choosing a new hairstyle is to pick a style based on popularity rather than how it will enhance their features. Always choose a new cut based on how it will enhance or detract from your facial features and build. If you have broad shoulders, choose a full-bodied cut over a close cropped head hugging doo.

3. Don’t forget your UV protectants. Just as your skin gets damaged by wind and sun, so does your hair. To combat this, look for finishing products such as mousses, gels and sprays that block UV rays.

4. Keep your appointments. Did you know that your hair will split faster than it will grow? You need to get a trim every 6 to 8 weeks, even if it’s just a micro trim. A good hairdresser makes them good because they know what to leave on the head, not take off.

5. Leave chemicals to the professionals. There is a reason why beauticians need to go to school to learn how to handle chemicals and hair processes. You can do irreparable damage with these products even if the package says that it’s way easy. And even if you don’t make your hair fall out, you could end up looking like a clown and paying a stylist big bucks to fix your mess. (Note: Most stylists charge double the rate for corrective color than they do for normal color processes)

6. Get color for interest and body. Every cut needs a little bit of color to make it truly breathtaking. No matter whether your taste is subtle or dramatic, you can add interest and volume to your tresses with a color process. Highlights, lowlights, all over color, gray coverage, you name it, it’s all good for your look.

7. Do weekly conditioning treatments. Even if your hair is extremely healthy, it is constantly on the attack from wind, sun, cold and heat. During the summer months, your hair is battered even more when it absorbs chlorine and other chemicals from your pool.

8. Get an ionic ceramic flat iron. Instead of frying your hair with a conventional metal plated flat iron. Straighten your tresses, add shine and infuse moisture with one of the a negative ionic flat irons. We personally use T3 irons for all our work.

9. Choose your styling products wisely. Avoid products that leave build-up on your hair. If you see white gunk, that means that your product is not water-soluble and may be coating your hair shaft. Build-up causes limpness, breakage and inability to curl not to mention the white flakes.

10. Did you know that if you use a towel after your shower to dry your hair you are causing split ends and adding static electricity to your hair. Don’t rub the towel back and forth over your hair, scrunch the towel around your hair like your would scrunch crackers in your soup.

While all of these tips won’t make you look like you’ve hired a personal hairdresser, they will help you look the very best that you can each and every day. When it comes to hair care, remember that you wear your hair everyday. Now isn’t it worth the time, effort and money that it takes to keep it looking spectacular?

by: Darla Di Grandi-Aguilera

READ MORE - 10 Great Hair Care Tips

Painless Hair Removal

Laser hair removal is rapidly growing to be the most popular quick painless hair removal treatment of all time. This is largely because of the immense benefits that the treatment seems to promise to millions of people around the world who are feeling unattractive due to the presence of unwanted body hair. Electrolysis for hair removal is fast becoming a thing of the past even as quick hair removal methods like waxing and tweezing continue to diminish in popularity as long-term or permanent hair removal treatments.

So you are beginning to catch the drift here, that while several marketers may offer a variety of permanent hair removal solutions, few actually make consumer sense in terms of the total benefits that it offers. And this where laser hair removal has stood its ground, offering a miraculous mode of escape from unwanted hair, be it facial hair removal for women, be it back hair removal for men. This space age technology is gaining in popularity primarily because of the marginal utilities it can offer you, be it time or money, speed or accuracy as far as quick painless hair removal treatments go.

The beauty of laser hair removal as a permanent hair removal solution is it applicability over a wide range of body areas and surfaces. You can choose you pick among specialized laser hair treatments for hair removal from your back, cheeks, upper lip, under arms, legs, arms, back, thighs, shoulders, bikini hair removal among a wide range of possibilities. And what's more, not only is this, a quick painless hair removal procedure, but the effect is also long lasting so much so that there is a lobby advocating this treatment as a permanent hair removal solution.

The secret of this form of hair removal treatment is the fact that the lasers with the help of light energy beams thermally agitate the base of your hair follicles and destabilize it without physically ever impacting your skin. And since it's a highly concentrated focused beam, the accuracy and effect are greatly accentuated to the target area of hair removal. In just a few treatments lasting from under 5 minutes to up to a maximum of an hour, you can experience a technology that not only gives you a permanent hair removal solution but one which also promises to effect a quick painless hair removal.

Laser hair removal - benefit from the future today itself!

by: Sam Natarajan

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Are you happy with your hairdresser and salon?

Insights from top Australian salon owner and hairdresser

By Perriann Rodriguez

How many times in your life do you think you will go to a salon to get your hair cut or styled? Let's see, if you start when you're about 2 years old and go 6 times a year until you're about 70 years old, that turns out to be over 400 visits. Even more impressive is the amount of money (over $12,000 USD for average $30 visits) you will end up spending in your lifetime to cut, style and care for your hair. This doesn't even include special hair care products or additional services such as coloring, perms, treatments, etc.

With these statistics, it is safe to say that our hair is an important part of our lives. Finding the right hair stylist and salon is crucial to the end results of any hair style or process. Emiliano Vitale, Creative Director for E Salon in Wahroonga Australia, says, "All clients look to us for direction. It is up to us to listen carefully, understand our clients needs and desires and then to translate this into a style which is specifically designed and tailored to their lifestyle and personal needs." We have invited Emiliano to visit with us and answer a few questions about salons, hairdressers and hair styles. Below are his insightful answers:

Question: Men and women spend thousands of dollars every year going to salons and caring for their hair. Yet most people report that they are less than satisfied with the results. When you read some of the salon reviews out there you will find people that like the look of their cut/color/perm but are very unhappy with the service. Some describe salons with arrogant, rude or inconsiderate hairdressers and staff. Why is E Salon different in this respect? How do you address complaints from clients ?

Emiliano: First of all, hairdressers are a reflection of their leader. You don't have rude or arrogant team members--you have rude and arrogant owners. Hairdressers globally, actually Humanity globally wakes up every morning and wants to give their best. Then they get to work and are rude only because they are not appreciated or lack self worth. It is the duty of every leader to dedicate themselves to their team and to inspire their team to cooperate in a spirit of harmony.

The only reason we are successful is because I dedicate myself to my team. I made a promise a long time ago that when one of my team members leave, they will leave a better human being and a better hairdresser. It is easy to blame our team members for making mistakes and for not being good enough. But I can assure that if we ALL, including OWNERS, realized that the person looking back at us in the mirror was responsible for the state of our life, then this industry, let alone this world, would be a greater place.

I train my people to see themselves as truly great human beings, and by doing this they will see greatness in everyone else. I promise to give them an extraordinary life and that is what my purpose is. My team members are the most pleasant and remarkable people I know.

At E Salon we treat the Human Being, not the hair. We encourage and welcome any feedback. Complaints are an opportunity to show the world what kind of human being you are. Many hairdressers take a complaint like a personal attack on them. As a leader it is our responsibility to train our people properly and nurture them and their spirit.

I am sorry; there are no rude and arrogant hairdressers---just incapable leaders. Always see the human being and give your best in evey moment in every situation. What you give is what you get---it is that simple.

Question: When you first meet with a client that wants a new hair style, what is your mode of operation?

Emiliano: The first thing I do is ask many questions, such as 'Why do you want to change your look? What don't you like about your hair?' I try to find out as much history as possible, including anything he/she has every been unhappy and happy with. Next I like to feel the hair to determine its thickness and texture. Then I look for any unusually growth patterns. Finally, and most important, I look at face shape, bone structure and the clients overall style. I focus in on suitability and I try to enhance the strengths they may have, i.e. eyes, lips cheekbones, etc. Sample photos of hair styles the clients like are also very helpful in letting me know what my clients like.


Question: As a salon owner, how important is it to keep abreast of current hair and fashion trends?

Emiliano: It is imperative that we stay abreast of what is happening in the world of hairdressing. Though it is more important to know who you are in relation to fashion. In today's world every fashion designer and hairdresser is doing his or her own thing. We must find what we identify with in terms of fashion, and with that initial inspiration, make that evolve into something that is uniquely ours.

It is so important to be a leader not a follower and to be true to yourself. In the state of truth you will be able to tap into a universal source of what is fashion anyway. That is a purely surreal experience when you come up with an original idea, and realize that others have had the same idea, very cool.

Question: A lot of hairdressers aim to please and give their clients the hair cut that they want. For example---a client brings in a photo of a hair style he/she really likes and wants to get the same look. Do you ever tell a client that ---NO that hair style or color will not work for you?

Emiliano: Absolutely! If I feel a hair style doesn't suit a client, I will not hesitate to let him/her know how I feel. That is why my clients pay me $110 a cut. Having said that, I must also contradict myself by saying, hair is about the person wearing it, not the hairdresser.

By knowing who you are and believing in yourself, you attract clients who like what you do. Hence you will very rarely have client in your chair that doesn't like what you do.

Question: What salon products do you use and how importat are they to creating workable hair styles?

Emiliano: We use L'Oreal styling products. My favorites are; Gloss Wax, Liss Control and Pure Gloss Spray in the Techni.art range, Smoothing Serum in the Texturline range by Artic (L'Oreal) and Kiwi Blow serum in the Kiwi range.

Without products, I don't believe we would really be able to produce the results we are looking for.

Question: It's one thing to come out of the salon looking fabulous. It's quite another creating the look on your own at home. Do you offer styling advice and training for your clients?

Emiliano: I offer the correct advice on which products to use and how to use them to achieve results.

Question: What can we expect for hair style trends for the Fall 2004? What will be the popular colors, lengths, styles?

Emiliano: From me, you can expect short crowns with longer lengths, creating seamless layers and transition from short to long. I am still working with asymmetry and disconnected lengths. Fringes are still very hot. I love anything Rock Chic looking. I try to make my models and clients look like Rock stars.

Colors are more a technique thing rather than actual colors, though I am working a lot with mahogany and nut browns. Highlights are bolder yet they are peeping through the hair, not on the top of the hair. I have been working with this technique for a couple of years, just varying the placement of color. At this very moment we are working with major contrast in color.

Question: Where do hair style trends start anyway?

Emiliano: I believe hair trends do not start, they evolve. They are definitely started by the hairdresser rather than the client. For example, let's look at the past season. Hair trends have a very sixties and eighties influence. Now that definitely didn't start recently, though it evolved from that period and was adapted to today.

I will try to start my own trends. At the moment I am working with my GARAGE Collection in the salon and my L'Oreal tour. The collection features extremely short crowns, varying lengths, with asymmetry and disconnection. Trends are inspired by something. They can be inspired by a movie, a song, a painting---with inspiration anything goes. You must trust your instincts. Fashion is what you LOVE. LOVE IS FASHION

Question: On a global scale, do you see a trend of how new hair style fashions evolve?

Emiliano: Personally the entertainment industry inspires me. I feel Hollywood has a major influence on setting trends. European hairdressers, especially the English are great translators of this. To take the mantle as trend setter, you definitely need to earn it.

I know many hairdressers look to fashion and the designer's new collections for inspiration. You know that anything goes, and it is usually started by some kid on a street corner who has cut their own hair, and it has caught the eye of some top stylist, designer or even director.

Fashion is what you make it and who you are in context to that fashion.

Question: What are some of the current hair concerns that your clients are experiencing and what sort of treatments do you offer?

Emiliano: In Australia, hair is very good at the moment as we are in winter. If anything, the hair is a little dehydrated. We offer the complete range of Power Dose treatments from L'Oreal. They are quick and easy treatments and make such an immediate change in the hair. My favorite here is the Shine Blonde treatment that is a toner as well as a treatment. Results are awesome!

Question: Do you have hard and fast hair care advice that applies to everyone?

Emiliano: Use very little conditioner. Apply it first to mid-lengths and the ends, then comb it through the rest of the hair. When applying mousse, apply it slowly and with a comb, little by little. Always finish with a gloss spray for shine.

Question: There is a study that says one in two women color their hair. A lot of women do it themselves. What type of color products do you use and why would you recomment that women go to E Salon for color processing?

Emiliano: We exclusively use L'Oreal Professional products. We recommend that clients come to us for color because we are trained professionals. COLOR TO HAIR ACTS LIKE PAINT TO A SKETCH, IT GIVES IT LIFE! The reason I feel that one in two women color their hair at home is our own fault. We need to spend more money on training our people and take responsibility ourselves. We tend to blame the companies for making and selling hair color products in the supermarkets. If we were doing our jobs correctly, the companies wouldn't need to sell in pharmacies and supermarkets.

Question: Finally, what are your recommendations for someone seeking a new hairdresser or salon?

Emiliano: Go in for a blow dry and take notice of all the work going on around you. Look for someone who puts love into his or her work. The are a rare breed and when you find them, cherish them. You will notice they stroke the hair, like you would pat a cat. They put their heart and soul into their work and they look at what they are doing and the way the hair falls. The best hairdressers will ask about you, not talk about themselves. Always pick the stylist in a salon with the worst haircut. The best hairdressers cut everyone elses' hair.

I tend to get a lot of clients by people asking my clients on the street who cuts their hair. Don't be afraid to ask lots of questions and bring in pictures. When you find a happy and content team of hairdressers, you are sure your money is going to someone who is making a difference in the lives of their clients.

Thank you Emiliano for your thoughts and insights on hair styles and salons!

Emiliano: Final words: Be brilliant and accept yourself for the glorious human being you are, for the SIMPLE reason that you ARE. GOD BLESS ! Emiliano

E Salon, E for Effort, Enthusiasm and Excellence in Hair

Emiliano Vitale operates E Salon along with his father, Samuel Vitale - Managing Director, and his cousin Valerio Domenici - Salon Director.
E Salon first opened in Double Bay in 1994. The second E Salon opened in Wahroonga in 2000 the Double Bay closed in 2001 as it merged with Wahroonga so that Emiliano could focus more on education, shows, seminars and travel - July 2001 to Dec 2001 Emiliano traveled through Europe, UK, USA looking at latest fashions to bring back to E Salon. Now Emiliano travels every year to keep up to date with what is happening around the world.

Emiliano's father, Samuel has been a great source of inspiration for his career as a hairdresser. Samuel successfully ran his own salon, Samuel's Hairdressing, in Hornsby for 28 years before joining forces with his son and nephew at E Salon at Wahroonga.

Emiliano has been contracted by L'Oreal to educate in seminars on haircutting, success, goal setting and the importance of DREAMING, BELIEVING and ACHIEVING. He adds, "My main objectives for my seminars are to inspire hairdressers to GIVE more and to help them discover the tools that will make them truly successful." Emiliano was also selected as Style and Shoot 2004 Ambassador and is the National Judge. Style and shoot has 1000 entrants from across Australia. He will select 20 State finalists, then 1 ultimate winner.

E Salon was voted in top 10 salons by Sydney's Highroller magazine and has received significant press coverage in international and national magazines. For additional information about Emiliano or E Salon, see their website located at: http://www.esalon.com.au.

READ MORE - Are you happy with your hairdresser and salon?

Black Hair Basics

by: David Riewe

The typical hair and hair follicles of those of African descent are tightly curled, thus producing hair that spirals. Black hair also typically has a larger diameter than Caucasian hair and retains less water, thus its relative “kinkiness.” The many styling methods utilized on Black hair cause concern with hair loss. Black hair is very strong, fortunately so because Black hair styles cause a great deal of stress on the hair and scalp.

For example, using a hair pick to pick the hair up to a bushy style is a very damaging process due to the constant pulling causing stress on the hair shaft as well as the follicle. In fact, combing Black hair in general can create high stress on Black hair and cause breakage, which perpetuates dryness. Conrowing and braiding are methods of hairstyling that pull the hair tight, and this can cause a great deal of stress on the hair and scalp resulting in hair loss. Braiding that results in the hair being pulled very tight can cause traumatic alopecia, a hair loss that is caused by trauma to the hair and scalp. Traumatic alopecia is usually reversible with proper hair care.

Hot combs and relaxers used to straighten hair can cause a great deal of heat and chemical damage to hair and scalp, which can also cause traumatic alopecia, and over time can cause permanent hair loss. This becomes especially true when the heat or chemically processed hair is pulled tight by rollers or a hot curling iron.

Hot oil conditioners are excellent for Black hair, as hot oil treatments contain proteins and polymers vital to repairing the hair cuticles. Hot oil treatments involve heating the oil and putting it into the hair and scalp, then covering the hair with a plastic cap to allow the oil to soak in. Follow the recommendations on the treatment you are using for the amount of time you should leave the treatment on the hair. This process can heal breakages and shinier stronger hair will be the result.

Consider that hair relaxers commonly used on Black hair contain lye or similar chemicals that break down the hair shaft. Left on beyond the recommended time, these chemicals would eat right through the hair and cause it to fall out in clumps. This is why these same products are used in products like Drano® to clean clogged drains which often are clogged by hair. No-lye relaxers are very popular today, mainly because it leads people to believe that the product is not caustic. This is far from the truth. The combination of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate are combined to form guanidine hydroxide, which could just as easily clean a sink. Repeated use of such products can cause some degree of hair loss, and if scarring occurs while using these chemicals, the hair loss can be permanent in that area of the scalp. One must ask themselves is it wise to place such caustic chemicals in the hair on a regular basis for the sake of desired appearance? The question must be answered by each individual, however the facts should be known.

There is little that can be done to alleviate this syndrome without changing the typical hairstyles of African Americans. There is a catch-22 concerning relaxing Black hair, since combing natural Black hair causes so much stress and breakage of hair, while chemicals cause so much harm to the hair and scalp as well. There are a few hair-relaxing products on the market that use chemicals and are somewhat less harsh than sodium hydroxide (lye) or its popular equivalent in “no-lye” relaxers: calcium hydroxide (quicklime) mixed with guanidine carbonate. One such product is called Natural-Laxer® and Sahara Clay® by Baka ProductsTM that has been on the market since 1990. This product is all natural and because it does not contain many of the harsh chemicals of commercial relaxers and actually contains only a finely ground plant called Daphne Gnidium and clay from Africa it is figured to be relatively safe. Of course this product does not straighten hair in most instances the same way as commercial relaxers, however it does tend to make Black hair more manageable. There is yet another product on the market that is reported to be 92-96% natural which is called Naturalaxer Kit In A Jar™ that does not require the applicant to comb through the hair during the application, which results in a lot less damage.

Of course the bottom line is once again, if you can leave your hair in its natural state then you will experience less stress and damage to the hair and thus prevent at least one cause of hair loss. There is a growing segment of the Black population that is becoming comfortable with wearing their hair in natural styles. One such style is dreadlocks. There are many rumors and myths concerning dreadlocks, as there is little proper information available concerning this style, and as with anything that is misunderstood many myths arise around it. Dreadlocks can and must be washed; otherwise they will smell badly like any other dirty hair. The best process to use to wash dreadlocks is to use a residue-free shampoo. Most commercially made shampoos leave residue and can cause hair not to lock, lending fuel to the rumor that hair had to be dirty to form dreadlocks. Clean hair actually locks much better than dirty hair, as dirt is a residue in itself that will inhibit hair from locking. For best results one should use a fragrance free, conditioner free shampoo. Dreadlocks do not react well to oily and greasy substances, yet there are many good substances that are on the market today that will assist you in forming dreadlocks.

Dreadlocks are formed through a process, not simply by not combing or brushing the hair. Generally, one should start with hair about two inches in length, and the hair should be separated into even squares of hair and twisted gently together using a bonding or gel substance. Many use natural beeswax containing no petroleum, while others use loc and twist gels specifically formulated for locks. Once the hair is separated and twisted into small locks, it is important that they are left alone and allowed to bond naturally. The length of time it will take to lock will depend on the coarseness of your hair, but one can normally expect to wait several months before locks begin to form. While the hair is locking, it will need to be washed. Here is where washing should be extended for a while if possible, so that the hair can be allowed to lock for two weeks to about a month without manipulation. When you do wash your hair, use a stocking cap or “do-rag”, and low-pressure water to make sure that the newly forming locks do not come loose. It will be necessary to rinse for a much longer time than you normally do, because of the lower pressure of the water and the lack of direct manipulation of your hair with your hands. The water is good for your hair and locking process, so this is not a problem. It is also imperative as indicated before that you use a shampoo that does not contain a conditioner and leaves as little residue as possible. A little research on your

part will be necessary here; your health food store should contain a variety of natural shampoos. Have a skilled professional or a friend re-twist the hair gently, reapplying the twist gel or beeswax that you used previously. Repeat this process every two weeks to a month, the longer you are able to wait the better, and within a few months your hair will begin to lock. Again, if you have a fine grade of hair rather than a kinky grade of hair, a beautician skilled at forming locks (“locktitian”) or a friend who is very familiar with the hairstyle should be consulted. Even though dreadlocks are mainly a hairstyle for Blacks, there are other races that have people that enjoy the hairstyle. In general, it tends to be a style of hair that in the long run will give the hair and scalp needed rest from the rigors of chemical and heat treatments and rigorous combing and brushing, and therefore can contribute to longer life for your hair.

READ MORE - Black Hair Basics